The three granite towers above a green glacial lake in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine National Park · Chile

Patagonia: Torres del Paine W Trek

The granite towers at dawn, the French Valley between hanging glaciers and the ice wall of Glacier Grey, walked end to end with nights in mountain refugios or campsites. Six days, four of them on the trail.

  • 6 days
  • $$$ Splurge
  • Challenging
  • Solo
  • Couples
  • Friends
  • Mountains
  • Nature

Day by day

The plan

Times are suggestions. Opening hours and seasons change, so check before you go. Once it’s in your trip, move anything you like.

  1. Day 1

    Arrive in Puerto Natales

    1. 12:00

      Fly or bus into Puerto Natales

      Getting around

      Fly direct to Puerto Natales in season, or land in Punta Arenas and take the bus north.

    2. 14:00

      Stay in Puerto Natales

      Stay

      The gateway town on the Última Esperanza sound, full of gear shops and trekkers.

    3. 15:30

      Gear check and supplies

      Other

      Rent poles or a stove if you need them and buy trail snacks; prices rise inside the park.

    4. 18:00

      Waterfront walk

      Activity

      Black-necked swans and wide views across the water to the mountains.

    5. 19:30

      Dinner: Patagonian lamb

      Food & drink

      Slow-roasted lamb is the regional dish, and a good last big meal before the trail.

  2. Day 2

    Base of the Towers

    1. 07:30

      Bus to the park and shuttle to the Central sector

      Getting around

      Early buses reach Laguna Amarga in about two hours, with a short shuttle on to the trailhead.

    2. 10:30

      Hike up the Ascencio Valley

      Activity

      A steady climb through wind-bent beech forest along the river.

    3. 13:30

      Packed lunch near the Chileno area

      Food & drink

      Rest and eat before the hardest part of the day.

    4. 15:00

      Mirador Base Las Torres

      Activity

      The last hour is a steep scramble over boulders to the lake beneath the three towers.

    5. 20:00

      Refugio or campsite in the Central sector

      Stay

      Back down the same trail to sleep near the park’s eastern entrance.

  3. Day 3

    Along Lake Nordenskjöld

    1. 08:30

      Trail west toward Los Cuernos

      Activity

      A rolling, shorter day above the turquoise lake, with time to recover your legs.

    2. 12:30

      Packed lunch by the lake

      Food & drink

      Find a spot out of the wind among the rocks.

    3. 14:30

      Beach below Los Cuernos

      Activity

      A pebble shore under the two-toned horns of the Paine massif.

    4. 17:00

      Refugio or campsite at Los Cuernos

      Stay

      A small sector tucked under the peaks; bed and meals must be booked ahead.

  4. Day 4

    The French Valley

    1. 07:30

      Hike to the Italiano camp

      Activity

      Cross streams and open slopes to the mouth of the valley; leave heavy bags at the ranger post if allowed.

    2. 09:30

      Mirador Francés

      Activity

      You hear the hanging glacier on Paine Grande cracking and calving across the valley.

    3. 11:00

      Mirador Británico (if time and weather allow)

      Activity

      The head of the valley, ringed by granite walls. It adds several hours, so turn back if you are behind.

    4. 14:30

      Packed lunch back at Italiano

      Food & drink

      Collect your bags and refuel for the last stretch.

    5. 19:00

      Refugio or campsite at Paine Grande

      Stay

      On the shore of Lake Pehoé, the busiest stop on the W and the catamaran landing.

  5. Day 5

    Glacier Grey

    1. 08:00

      Trail north to Lake Grey

      Activity

      A climb past Laguna Los Patos to the first view of icebergs floating on the lake.

    2. 12:00

      Glacier Grey lookout

      Activity

      The glacier’s blue front, part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

    3. 13:00

      Lunch at the Grey sector

      Food & drink

      Warm up indoors or out of the wind before deciding how far to push.

    4. 14:30

      Suspension bridges (optional)

      Activity

      Past the Grey sector, the trail crosses ravines on swaying bridges with the ice below.

    5. 18:00

      Refugio or campsite at Grey

      Stay

      A quiet last night close to the ice.

  6. Day 6

    Out by boat

    1. 08:00

      Hike back to Paine Grande

      Activity

      The same trail in reverse, mostly downhill, with the lake in front of you.

    2. 12:00

      Lunch at Paine Grande

      Food & drink

      Rest your legs while you wait for the boat.

    3. 13:30

      Catamaran across Lake Pehoé

      Getting around

      A short crossing with the Cuernos straight ahead, landing at Pudeto.

    4. 15:00

      Bus back to Puerto Natales

      Getting around

      Buses pick up at Pudeto and reach town by early evening.

    5. 19:30

      Celebration dinner in Puerto Natales

      Food & drink

      King crab or lamb and a long night’s sleep.

Good to know

Tips

Book every night in advance

Rangers check that you have a booking for each refugio or campsite on the W, and summer fills months ahead. Buy the park entrance ticket online before you arrive.

Wind and four seasons a day

Gusts can be strong enough to knock you off balance, and sun, rain and sleet can come within hours. Pack a waterproof shell, warm layers, gloves and a hat even in January.

Fitness and direction

The towers day and the French Valley day are both long, with steep sections. Many hikers go east to west as here; going west to east leaves the towers for the final morning.

Fire and cash

Open fires are banned and stoves are only allowed in marked cooking areas; past fires burned large parts of the park. Carry some Chilean pesos, as card payment isn’t reliable everywhere on the trail.

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