The Obelisco rising over Avenida 9 de Julio in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires · Argentina

Buenos Aires

Grand avenues and old cafés downtown, Sunday stalls in San Telmo, the tombs of Recoleta, long steak dinners in Palermo and a day on the river delta at Tigre. Four days in a city that eats late and walks everywhere.

  • 4 days
  • $$ Mid-range
  • Easy
  • Good with kids
  • Couples
  • Friends
  • Solo
  • City
  • Food
  • Culture

Day by day

The plan

Times are suggestions. Opening hours and seasons change, so check before you go. Once it’s in your trip, move anything you like.

  1. Day 1

    Downtown and Avenida de Mayo

    1. 09:30

      Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada

      Activity

      The political heart of the country, with the pink presidential palace and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

    2. 11:00

      Walk Avenida de Mayo

      Activity

      A boulevard of Belle Époque facades and historic cafés, ending at the Congress building.

    3. 13:00

      Lunch: milanesa in the center

      Food & drink

      A breaded cutlet, often topped napolitana style with ham, cheese and tomato.

    4. 15:00

      Teatro Colón

      Activity

      One of the world’s great opera houses; the guided tour shows the main hall and its acoustics.

    5. 17:00

      Obelisco and Avenida 9 de Julio

      Activity

      The city’s landmark in the middle of one of the widest avenues anywhere.

  2. Day 2

    Recoleta and Palermo

    1. 09:30

      Recoleta Cemetery

      Activity

      A city of marble mausoleums, including Eva Perón’s family tomb.

    2. 11:30

      Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

      Activity

      Argentine and European art, a short walk from the cemetery.

    3. 13:00

      Floralis Genérica

      Activity

      The giant steel flower in a park on Avenida Figueroa Alcorta.

    4. 15:00

      Bosques de Palermo and the Rosedal

      Activity

      Lakes, bike paths and a rose garden; good for kids to run around.

    5. 21:00

      Dinner: steak at a parrilla in Palermo

      Food & drink

      Order bife de chorizo and provoleta, with Malbec. Locals rarely sit down before nine.

  3. Day 3

    San Telmo, La Boca and tango

    1. 10:00

      San Telmo and Calle Defensa

      Activity

      Cobbled streets and antique shops; on Sundays the street fair runs for blocks.

    2. 12:30

      Lunch in the San Telmo Market

      Food & drink

      An old iron-roofed market with produce, antiques and food counters.

    3. 14:30

      Caminito in La Boca

      Activity

      Brightly painted tin houses by the old port. Go in daylight and stay on the main streets.

    4. 17:00

      Puerto Madero and Puente de la Mujer

      Activity

      Converted brick docks and a footbridge over the water, nice at sunset.

    5. 21:30

      Tango show or milonga

      Activity

      Watch a show, or go to a milonga where locals dance and beginners can take a class first.

  4. Day 4

    Day trip to the Tigre delta

    1. 09:00

      Train to Tigre

      Getting around

      About an hour by suburban train from Retiro station.

    2. 10:30

      Boat through the Paraná Delta

      Activity

      River boats thread channels lined with stilt houses and rowing clubs.

    3. 13:00

      Lunch by the river in Tigre

      Food & drink

      Grilled fish or a choripán on the waterfront.

    4. 14:30

      Puerto de Frutos market

      Activity

      Wicker, furniture and crafts in the old fruit port.

    5. 19:00

      Farewell dinner and ice cream

      Food & drink

      Buenos Aires takes its helado seriously; dulce de leche is the flavor to try.

Good to know

Tips

Money

Exchange rules and the rates for foreign cards versus cash change often in Argentina. Check current advice before you go, and carry some pesos for small purchases.

Getting around

Buy a SUBE card for the subte, buses and the train to Tigre. Neighborhoods are walkable, and taxis or ride apps are easy at night.

Eat on local time

Lunch runs into mid-afternoon and dinner starts late. A merienda of coffee and medialunas in the late afternoon bridges the gap.

Seasons and street smarts

Spring and autumn are mild; January is hot and many locals leave town. Keep your phone out of reach on busy streets and in the subte.

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